![]() The fat distributing differently is what changes the colour. The best fancy butter I’ve ever had was in Smoke and Salt (an avant garde restaurant that started in Pop Brixton and has found its permanent home in Tooting, south London).Ĭhef Remi Williams describes the principle: “Whip it for 10 minutes until it goes white and fluffy, but with a mixer, not by hand. Butter served as a centrepiece ingredient, rather than a neutral accessory, has been a restaurant staple since the early 2010s. You don’t just spread it on a board, however artfully first, you have to whip it. Plus, the TikTok nitwits are doing it wrong. It is,” she concludes, “going to taste nice”. You’re basically putting out a flat board of flourless cake mixture it would work with french toast, muesli, granola, waffle. It’s quite hard to move it into the domestic setting.” Even though it will be very rich and send your kids crazy, Segnit leans towards the sweet butter board: “Maple sugar, honey, chestnuts. There’s also, Segnit says, “no sense of what this is going to look like if you’ve got candles on your table, 12 people round it, lights overhead. Photograph: Christian Sinibaldi/The Guardian Zoe Williams makes a butter board at home with feta, fresh oregano, toasted almonds and chilli flakes and salt. Anything that’s wet, anything that leaks colour, will mess it up – a lot of nice, fresh ingredients don’t behave very well.” The butter board is quite a tortured food trend there aren’t that many ways of doing it so that it looks really great, that’s how you end up with nasturtiums. When they’re good, they’re quite clean – herbs and citrus, maybe a bit of garlic or onion. However, she urges a longer memory: “You could go to Larousse, and there are all these combinations of compound butter that have been around since butter was invented. He was man-of the moment after publishing Six Seasons, which has a number of compound butters featuring microherbs. Niki Segnit, author of The Flavour Thesaurus, says it’s tempting to trace butter boards back to American chef Joshua McFadden. But I didn’t grow up with rationing, and I like to eat butter on its own as well, and thus we can sideways prove the inheritance of acquired characteristics on our way to making a butter board. My mother likes to eat slices of cold butter with nothing at all, not even a cracker, and says it’s because she grew up with rationing – there’s nothing quite like the sheer exotic plenty of being allowed to. ![]()
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